It's Finished!

So the corset is finished, and here are the results, I forgot my camera because I'm a jelly head so these were kindly taken on a phone so the quality isn't crystal, but you get the idea! 

Thanks so much for letting me make such a wonderful corset.




The fabrics are, white linen sateen for the front, back and modesty panel. Grey flat cotton for the bone accent bone casings and cotton sateen for the main body of the panelling. With all silver hardware and accent stitching and black contrast corsetry laces. 


Corset Update

It's great when you have a fitting where you don't have to do any real adjustments, that's like the first time ever!! Woooot!

All before the eyelets go in, my lovely assistant helped hold it closed for me whilst I took a snap :)

The waist stay going in by hand. All the double interfacing and final strengthening goes on here.


Before the busk goes in!

Before it was tried on or even before the bones went in.

Stay tuned for final images. It's almost done, so you should see it come to life real soon! 




What will it be made out of this time?

Just thought I'd give you a little run through of all the fabric and components I'm using in the corset I'm making before I cut everything up.


Above we have starting from the left:

Black cotton sateen, grey cotton, white linen sateen 
Black and grey corset binding
Black and White Gutermann thread, my machine won't use anything else now because he's a snob! Pffft!
White corsetry laces to be dyed grey with the dylon!


Here we have, again from the left:

14" Steel busk
Various steel bones
Flat steels (the white strips)
White and black interfacing
5mm silver toned eyelets
White grosgrain ribbon for the waist stay

Not as many components as usual but this is will be a lovely light corset to be worn with ease in order to look lovely and glamorous! 

Keep your eyes open for process photo's, it'll be the pattern next

Corset.. say whaaaaat?! It's been so long dear!

So as you've guessed it, I'm doing another corset for a lovely lady I know.

I will update here over the next few weeks as and when a stage has been completed, you can also stay tuned on my facebook too!

It will be a classic shape and fit, to make a lovely glamorous statement. In edgy black and white with some grey accents and chrome finish hardware.


This is the working drawing we have at them moment. Toile fittings and fabric etc. to follow soon!





It's finished!!!

The tailored jacket for Mandy is finished! Here's the break down:

Happy smiley Mandy in the first try on since the toiling stage, she has been so patient with me!
The theme for this jacket was menswear style smoking jacket and can be dressed up with tailored trousers and a blouse or dressed down with jeans like Mandy has done here or feminised back up with a pencil skirt.


Welt pockets in black with wool flap. Hand worked shoulders with sleeve head and shoulder pads. Made out of plum worsted wool with cotton sateen lapel and details in warm toned black. Lined by hand in silver grey paisley.

Back vent pleat in contrast black for extra movement and to balance the colours
Matt black glass buttons with contrast buttonholes.





Hand stamped and crafted label with year of making.




Almost there with the Tailored Saville Row Style Jacket for Mandy!


I'm back with another update on the tailored jacket for Mandy! It's going well, fought me a fair amount on the sleeves but that comes with the territory I guess. There will be no more uploads of the full jacket until its all done now! So you guys will just have to sit tight for a wee bit :)

Front view pinned to close at the moment and stay stitching around the whole of the collar. Pockets are all in though now :)

Thank goodness that this darling lady was around to test fit it for me and just so happens to be the same dimensions as Mandy :) Yippee!!!



Pinning the sleeve leaving slack around the sleeve head so it can be eased in. Easing in a sleeve is tricky but is better done by hand for more control. Your sleeve head will always be slightly larger than your arm scye, that's just so you get a little bit of room when it falls over that bend just past the seam before it falls straight down the arm, It's also perfect for when adding a sleeve head or booster or inlaying the shoulder pad into the shoulder seam. 

Pinning in a sleeve booster ready to be hand stitched, I like to slip stitch it to the actual seam stitching so it doesn't pull unnecessarily on the fabric.

Lining all ready and cut out ready to be sewn together, pressed and stitched to the jacket by hand :)
Keep checking back in here for more close up piccies of the finishing touches coming soon! (Or as soon as a I get to them ;)

Saville Row Style Tailored Jacket, Progress!

Welcome back to another tailored jacket update, I'm working the pockets this very evening!! 

Here is the whole back piece ready to be attached to the front shoulders and for the collar to be set in. Its backed with muslin and catch stitched long all seams and there is a piece of hair canvas across the shoulders for stability, this isn't always necessary but I just hate seeing a shoulder pad line.


These are pictures of my pad stitching the collar before it gets sewn into the rest of the garment. The vertical short rows of stitches encourage the collar to have a good sturdy stand without the need to do it as a separate panel and the horizontal long rows help curve the fall of the collar and they get narrower towards the corners to help stop them curling upwards. It, again, is one layer of muslin over one layer of canvas. I kept the canvas close to the wool so that over time it will felt together with wear and sculpt to the wearer. That's generally the point of canvas as well as adding stability to the jacket.

Its crucial to set the collar on a tailors ham with steam and allow it to cool and dry into that position. This gives the stand a good crease line to stick to.

Again, re-steaming the stand, as I had handled it a fair amount, just to make sure I get a smooth break line throughout the whole collar area.


All the work proudly on display just so it can get hidden later, I love knowing that its all there though, makes all the difference to how the outer shell sits on the body. This is also where you can make minor adjustments to balance out an misbalanced figure, but I'm not that good yet so I just follow as if its already a perfectly balanced body (which no-one is, we're all wonky old beans!)

Where I'm up to!! Just needs pockets, sleeves, button holes, finishing the cuffs, lining etc. So still lots to do before I get to give it to its new home!

Female Saville Row Style Tailored Jacket, where I'm up too

Welcome back, thought I would share with you where I am up to with Mandy's custom fitted tailored jacket.

Securing all my seams with a herringbone catch stitch. Make sure you do this, you don't want any of those nasty seam allowance sticking up and destroying your lovely smooth pressing later on, causing an awkward indent or shiny bit. Literally just removed and replaced a whole panel because of this. 

All muslin backing/interlining tacked in place and ready! A light way of adding more body to you project.

Inside out, looking loooovely!

Ooooo lots of lovely hair canvas is going in!!! This adds stability to the shoulder area and stops the jacket from collapsing in around the hollow below the collar bone, also supports the CF edge to stop it looking frumpy AND supports the shoulder pads, generally awesome stuff! Invisibly attached in and around the concealed neck dart and invisibly tacked to the main body of the garment.  


'Pain' stakingly pad stitching, if you can use a thimble then do so here, it hurts, like pain, for days...¬_¬
Doing this allows the lapel to anchor towards the chest so you won't get any curly notched collars or a shawl/rolled collar that just won't lay flat! Basically beats the fabric into submission, forcing it to lay where you want it to, permanently.

Progress!!
Just fell stitching some stay tape to the cf edge and breakline :) 
This is so satisfying! To anyone looking at me as I work it just looks like I'm doing nothing, for hours and days straight and then  pooooof! A tailored jacket emerges, I can't wait for that moment. Making it look effortless is something I'm working towards and that's hard.